Turrets and towers on the England Coast Path
The distinctive Logan Rock, just east of Porthcurno, was a fairy castle of turrets and towers surrounded by a restless Atlantic moat. I could imagine a king shouting from the highest pinnacle and near the top one single boulder can be rocked on its base. Tales describe how a naval officer in the 19th century made it sway a little too much and sent it crashing into the sea. The Navy took a dim view and ordered him, at his own expense, to hire a gang of workers to winch the rock back into place!
The beach below the rock was nothing short of stunning and, after a helter skelter descent, we allowed ourselves a couple of hours of R and R. Azure waves rolled onto the south facing sands and the recent winter battering was already fading into the past. Suitably refreshed, it was now time to gamble on bus timetables and we reckoned we could storm out to Land’s End just in time to catch the last bus of the day.
The three miles beyond Porthgwarra were a little easier, with only one big dipper at Nanjizal where a tall tunnel beyond the beach is called the Song of the Sea. Choughs wheeled overhead as a narrow terrace led past old stone walls to the well-worn slopes that surround the package of visitor attractions at Land’s End.
The bus was waiting at the back of an empty car park and I unfolded our map in front of the driver. We had assumed he would be dropping us at St Buryan, two miles from where we started, but – as if by magic – his regular route turned south from there on a minor road leading right back to the car. A perfect end to a perfect day, but how on earth do you choose the best bit of the South West Coast Path? You can’t, you’ve really got to do it all.